Here, after annoying web-based delays, is the Times-Picayune review of The Green Goddess. Three beans, which is what we expected. I believe the food deserves four, but the atmosphere and service aren't there yet, so it's a fair rating. Even better, restaurant critic Brett Anderson appears to get the inspiration behind Chris' cooking: The chef has logged more than enough time in restaurant kitchens to be excused for having lost enthusiasm for the craft. But if anything is clear after eating at The Green Goddess, it is that DeBarr still believes his chosen profession offers a life rich in possibility.

Which is why we're living this life years after I begged Chris to never, ever open another restaurant. Life might be simpler if I'd managed to fall in love with a guy who was content to work on someone else's line forever, but I suspect it would be less interesting. As well, Chris is obviously so much happier and more interested in things since opening the place that I'd have to be a combination of Scrooge, the Grinch, and Selfish the Shellfish* not to support him in his quest. I'm bad, but not that bad.

As for the criticisms, I agree with some, take issue with others. Chris' twice-baked potatoes are great, but only when he personally makes them; nobody else seems able to make them any good at all. The numerous fans of the buttery-delicious Spooky Crepes, though, will be surprised to learn that they "exist primarily to show off the breadth of the kitchen's culinary knowledge." I don't believe Chris engages in that kind of culinary posturing -- he leaves that to the shark-fin-soup guys -- but even if he did, hello, huitlacoche is fucking delicious. It's still a bit alarming to many New Orleans diners raised on traditional ingredients, though (never mind that diners elsewhere are horrified and disgusted by the humble crawfish), and I'm hoping Chris can help ease them into a knowledge of its true nomminess.

At the end of the day, I'm waiting to hear from the folks who predicted that Chris would never be able to make it in the New Orleans restaurant world because he was so burdened by my drugged-out, has-been, sacred-cow-disliking ass. Evan? JoAnn? "Justine" from "Belgium"? Any theories on how the impossible came to pass? ... No, didn't think so. Sucks to be you.

I'm only sorry that Web readers can't see the accompanying photo of Chris juggling sweet potatoes in Exchange Alley. Why did he juggle sweet potatoes for his Serious Chef Portrait? Because he just had to.


*An obnoxious shrimp who was the antihero of several bedtime stories my mother used to tell me, perhaps suggesting an uncharming component of my childhood character.

There's an excellent 3-bean review of The Green Goddess in today's Times-Picayune, and I was going to link to it and comment on it here. Unfortunately, nola.com (the site that hosts the T-P online) is, as they say, borked. (Does that word mean what I think it means? Hope so.) Watch this space, as I expect they'll get it together eventually. For now, I will only say to my one true love: I told you to quit bothering with that stupid lemon parfait.

Hanging in here. Had a nice weekend with Chris: lakefront, beautiful softshell crabs at R&O by the lake, driving along the lakefront, visiting the (somewhat worse for wear) Mardi Gras Fountain, going to the zoo, laughing a lot. Also, for anyone who didn't catch it on Twitter or chefcdb, The Green Goddess made the front page of Gourmet.com! (The story's no longer on the front page, but still on the site.) Pretty amazing for a restaurant that's only been open three months, but I truly thought Chris could do it if he had a chance to buckle down and do it just the way he wanted. I think this same story will be in Gourmet's print magazine next month.

Pain has been bad, though, so I'm creeping around like a little old crippled man trying to clean up the house for my mom's visit next week, and what problems there are in the garden I'm letting the ladybugs and assassin bugs handle. Harvested three lovely eggplants today. When I'm not doing these things, I'm reading the Dark Tower. Again. Do it please ya. Or not.

As of today, The Green Goddess officially has its liquor license! Swing by 307 Exchange Alley and have a Green Fuse, a Sultan's Dream, or one of their many other delicious specialty cocktails to celebrate. If you do not imbibe of the grain and the grape, they have lots of virgin cocktails too.

Me, I'm off to eat "transparency of raspberry and yogurt" and "black truffle explosion," along with twenty-one other tiny fabulous things.

Just wanted to mention that Chris is doing something really cool at the Green Goddess for the Independence Day of the Colonialist Power (a.k.a. the 4th of July): they've rented the penthouse apartment on the fourth floor of their building and will be serving a Persian buffet in honor of the people's struggle for independence in Iran. As Chris points out in his entry, "This will be a private RSVP party, and the only way to find out how to attend, with a lush Persian banquet, a clear view of the fireworks display on the Mississippi River during the night of Independence Day, and a preview of a few of our creative cocktails soon to be available at The Green Goddess, only happens if you get an email invitation from us. The only way to score an invitation is to ask me for one on our website email listing for your chef correspondent." Or you can just call for reservations at (504) 301-3347. There's a reason he is being all 007 about this, but I'm not allowed to say it here.

He will also be running a Persian tasting menu all this week and probably next week too. Here's the drool-inducing part of the post:

Our 4th of July Tasting Menu, to Persia and her people,
Let us remember their courage this Summer 2009

Chilled Cucumber Soup (for Rumi)
Blended with Yogurt and Sumac,
Finished with “Snow” from Lemon Balm,
Crenshaw Melon, & Pimm’s #1 $8

Shamsi’s Refreshment
Watermelon Juice, Izze Sparkling Pomegranate & a Big Sour Cherry Ice Cube $8

A Fragrant Slice of Koukouye,
A Persian Frittata redolent with herbs, &
Homemade Havashu Naan Flatbread $9

A Pair of Stuffed Vegetables
Eggplant filled with Roasted Red Peppers and Pomegranate,
Swiss Chard Dolma filled with Zeresk Pilaf of Barberries, Basmati Rice,
Saffron, Ivory Lentils, Pistachios, and Black Lemon $15

Peach-Passion Fruit Tea with Green Cardamom $4

Oasis Sweetmeat
Medjool Date stuffed with Rose-Scented Almond Filling $8

Pistachio Gelato in a “Nest”
Shredded Phyllo, Orange Blossom Water,
Saffron, & Candied Yuzu Peel $9

Tasting Menu $54 (including drink pairings)

I've been meaning for a while to write an entry thanking everyone who has helped Chris with The Green Goddess. He's not only far happier than he was during his period of unemployment; he's even happier than he was at the Delachaise, because now he gets to be the asshole. (He isn't one, but that's how we often describe one of the perks and pitfalls of owning your own restaurant: "You've been working for assholes all your life, now you get to be the asshole." Did I use that somewhere in the Liquor books? Probably.) Anyway, though I've said many times that I never wanted to own a restaurant or be married to a restaurant owner again, you don't try to keep the people you love from doing what they love, and though I'm a little alarmed by the sudden precariousness of our lives, I do see that he is happy. So thanks to all of you -- investors, customers, those who've provided good word of mouth, those who liked Chris' food enough to keep him encouraged during the rough months, and a particular tip of the hat to Neil, the restaurant's uncle.

(Re: Neil's comment from the linked entry, "Poppy was too nervous to talk to me that first time for reasons I've never been able to figure out, so I chatted to Chris," I've told him before that I was embarrassed to talk to him because I hadn't read any of his work at the time and I thought he would be offended. Now, of course, I know he wouldn't have minded. As I said to him at the dinner where we discussed this, "I've read it now. It's very good!")

I go through periodic spells of several days to a couple of weeks where the idea of getting online just revolts me for some reason, and I'm in one of those spells now. (I apologize if I've ignored any important communiques, and offer my earnest intent to get to them the next day it rains soon.) I did want to quickly jump on to give two updates.

First the bad news: Catcentric readers may recall that our Siegfried had to undergo extensive dental work a couple of weeks ago. The doctor thought the soft tissue he removed from Sig's mouth didn't look right and sent it to be biopsied. Unfortunately, the tests revealed that Sig has squamous-cell carcinoma on both sides of his upper jaw. The treatment would involve surgery with at least a month's painful recovery time, then reconstructive surgery to repair his jaw, as well as radiation. Sig is 10, but I can't see putting even a young cat through all that. As well, with our large and aging population, we will be called upon to make some difficult decisions over the next few years: if there is scant hope no matter what treatments we opt for, and if the treatments are expensive (the above would run a minimum of $3000), mightn't it ultimately be better to save for later illnesses that may have more chance of success? When Marcel was so sick with hemobartonella in the winter of '05, his bills ran to $4K, but we've never regretted spending the money because he made a spectacular recovery and has been thoroughly enjoying himself ever since (though he did earn the nickname "Four Large").


Siegfried (bad camera-phone shot)

Next the good news: The Green Goddess is open for business! (Visit chefcdb for more details.) They're serving lunch 11am - 4pm Wednesday - Sunday, dinner 5pm - midnight Thursday - Sunday. Paul Artigues is the lunch chef, Chris the dinner chef. He's ecstatic to finally be cooking instead of dealing with bureaucracy. The Green Goddess is located at 307 Exchange Alley in the French Quarter. Please note that while they do serve several wonderful vegetarian dishes including an entire vegetarian tasting menu, they are not a vegetarian restaurant, nor will they become one if enough puling PETA members whine about foie gras (which isn't currently on the menu, but soon will be). There seems to be a certain amount of misconception about this, and the pulers really need to bite Chris' sweaty crank after a long and busy dinner shift; that will teach them to love meat. Oh dear, I've done it again, haven't I? This was supposed to be a promo, and one doesn't generally mention the chef's sweaty crank during a promo. Oh, well ... er ... COME ONE, COME ALL!